What’s Really in Your Moisturizer?

Natural vs. Commercial Skincare Explained

Breaking Down Commercial Skincare Ingredients.

The most important thing you must understand is that the longer the ingredients list and the more synthesized ingredients you find on the label the worse the product and the harsher the long-term impact on your skin and overall health..
We are organic beings, not machines. Just as our bodies thrive on whole, natural foods, our skin also recognizes and responds best to natural, “alive” ingredients. These compounds work in harmony with your body’s natural processes because we’ve evolved alongside them for thousands of years. In contrast, many artificial or heavily processed ingredients are relatively new to our biology. Your body doesn’t always know how to process them and often, instead of nourishing you, they can pollute your system, weaken your skin barrier, and trigger irritation over time.
The surprising part? Most commercial moisturisers,  from drugstore creams to luxury serums, are built from nearly identical formulations. What changes is mainly the packaging, the fragrance, the product colour, or a slightly different carrier oil. Whether a product is marketed as “day cream,” “night cream,” “for sensitive skin,” or even “for men,” the ingredient base is remarkably similar.
Don’t just take my word for it, grab a few of your products at home and look at the labels. Once you know what to look for, you’ll notice the same patterns repeating across nearly every jar and bottle. And if reading labels feels confusing at first, don’t worry, I used to struggle with this too. Now, after years of practice, I can decode ingredient lists better than any app, and I love teaching clients how to do the same.
If you want to get deeper into this topic or want to learn how to decode better and more reliable than any app, book your session with me. I teach you in a way that is easy to understand, and that makes you remeber forever - no more guessing.

Book your private session with me here.

The Basic Formulation of a Commercial Moisturiser

Once you break down the label, you’ll notice that nearly every commercial moisturizer, whether it’s sold as a luxury cream or a budget lotion, is built from the same foundation. Here’s what usually goes inside:

1.Water (Aqua): 70-85%

2. Emollients (e.g., Mineral Oil, Glycerin): 5-15%

3. Emulsifiers (e.g., Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate): 2-5%

4. Preservatives (e.g., Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin): 0.5-1%

5. Fragrance (Parfum): 0.1-1%

6. Other Active Ingredients (e.g., Panthenol, Allantoin): 0.5-2%

7. Thickeners or Viscosity Modifiers (e.g., Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Sodium Chloride): 0.1-2%

I reveal more insights in my Holistic skincare Masterclass and Expert Class!

Clients often show me their very expensive skincare products and almost every time they are shocked when I tell them what I just shared with you. The most common response is:

“But I paid $500 for it!” 

Which is no wonder since we are trained (or brainwashed) into believing that more money means better quality. And this is the way it should be. Sadly, many big brands have a very messed up moral compass and aren’t in the game to genuinely heal and rebalance your skin ailments, so you can ultimately stop using additional products. They rather keep you in the loop of experiencing dry skin, so you go back to the store to buy more cream for “dry skin” without realising that these products are made from cheap, crude oil and plastic based componants that give you the immediate feeling of relief, while drying your skin out even ore. What do you do? You go back and buy additional products. 
And the more you use these products the more damaged your skin becomes. Which means, the moment you stop using these products the symptomps of dry, flaky, itchy, red skin worsen and you fall right back into old pattern. It’s not your fault though, these products are designed this way!
Simulatneously, the marketing teams work very hard on making us belief that without beautiful and perfect skin and figure we won’t land our dream job, we won’t be desirable for man, and that we are not enough.not pretty enough, not youthful looking enough, and the list goes on.
Which means we are even under more pressure to tick society’s boxes. 
I don’t know about you but I was sick and tired of this.

I swapped my skincare routine and products more than a decade ago and the only thing i regret is that I didn’t start sooner. Or even better, I wish my mum knew what I know now and could have tought me better.

My experience became my motivation to help others, who experience similar conditions as well.

So, it is always worth looking at the labels and paying attention to the ingredients lists and transparent supply chains.

One Natural Product should be able to take Care Of:

  • Normal, dry, sensitive, oily and blemished skin
  • Natural acne treatment, neurodermatitis and eczema (Note: some natural products are more suited than others)
  • Hair oil (facial-, head-, body hair)
  • Cuticle oil
  • Skincare during pregnancy
  • Make up remover
  • Tattoo care oil
  • Unisex

If you enjoy this type of content and want to dick deeper into holistic skincare and learn the alchemy of creatig it yourself, my holistic skincare Masterclass or signature Expert Class are perfect for you!

Read more about my Holistic Skincare Masterclass.

The truth about luxury skincare brands

It is easy to assume that a higher price means higher quality. Sadly, the reality is that many luxury brands rely on cheap fillers and synthetic additives while spending far more on packaging and marketing than on the product itself.

Luxury Brand “B”

I'll call this luxury brand by its first letter "B". The skincare brand "B" is known for its high end luxurious skincare products.
The serum "The Serum" 30ml is available for 220€.
One look at the ingredients used and it's clear, "B" uses very cheap and rather harmful ingredients. Designed to offer a "quick fix" instead of focussing on the source of the skin condition.

Ingredients:

Water – the first and main ingredient, a cheap filler.

  • Silicone oils – create a silky texture and a temporary “smooth” feeling on the skin, but do not nourish.

  • Phenoxyethanol – a widely used preservative that is under scrutiny for potential risks, including DNA and nervous system damage. It is also found in household cleaning products.

  • Perfume and alcohol – both of which can irritate and dehydrate the skin.

The Actual price of the ingredients and the packaging is less than 1€.

//

gpc - holistic products

Organic Marula Oil, 30ml 60€

This oil is rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids and nutrients that the skin instantly recognises and can use. It naturally preserves itself without the need for synthetic additives.

Ingredients:

  • 100% cold-pressed Sclerocarya birrea Oil (marula oil)

  • Source: Wild-harvested, organic

  • Price: 60€

No fillers, no preservatives, no artificial fragrance, no marketing tricks. Just one ingredient, directly from nature, that works in harmony with your skin and body.

I use nature’s wisdom and stick to one raw, organic ingredient, avoid adding water (and other cheap fillers) and therefore skip the entire process of using synthetic preservatives. Because as we all know from the kitchen, oil is a natural preservative and is used to preserve food for example. 
Simple, Natural, Effective.

Why Are 100% natural plant ingredients For All Skin Types?

Exactly for the reason above. Nature (and your skin) doesn't care for the rules of the beauty industry, one product for each body part. This is commerce and has nothing to do with health or wellness.

Commercial formulations are designed to give you the illusion of quick relief while dehydrating your skin over the long term. This keeps you in a cycle of dependency, buying more products to fix the very problems they create.

Natural oils and butters, on the other hand, support the skin barrier, rebalance natural functions, and often serve multiple purposes. One bottle can be used as a facial oil, body care, cuticle oil, pregnancy care, or even as a gentle make-up remover. Nature does not separate products into “for men” or “for night” or “for dry skin”. These categories are created by the beauty industry to sell more products, not to heal your skin.


Nature is the best "chemist" in my opinion and provides us with the optimal (skin-) care that works and that has a long-lasting effect, since it would not benefit nature if we kept asking for more. One natural plant oil will always serve multiple purposes and the oil doesn't care whether it's used by a male or female or chield or pregnant woman. It dos not matter. You have to listen to your skin and find out what it needs. Does it needs moisture, does it need lipids or minerals or more vitamins or a mix of all?

How is your skin barrier doing?

This is an important one to check. Because if your skin barrier is “leaking” its moisture and lipids you can add those all you want, if it keeps evaporating on your skin it’s like filling petrol into a broken tank. Your car won’t move until you fixed the leak. Same goes for your skin barrier. Fix this skin dis~ease and 80-90% of the job is done! With your skin barrier intact, you already took care of most underlying skin issues. The go to product for this in my experience is handmade soap and organic baobab oil. I just love it, it works every single time. It treats the source (broken skin barrier), and promotes the propper processing and storage of moisture and lipids. 
Other oils and plant butter are great to. You just have to befriend your skin again, stop plastering it with chemicals and synthetic products, show it some love by only using natural soap once, max twice a day (not more often!) If you feel the need to cleanse yourself more often do it with warm water only or use cleansing clay.

Most important thing to remeber, less is more!

Now let’s talk skin types

If you are still using synthetic skincare products you most likely don't know your skin type yet, as your skin is governed and by the intelligently placed ingredients which stop your skin from doing its natural functions in its own rhythm. As long as you use these types of products, you will be a long way to healthy and glowing skin (and hair for that matter).

If you want to know your real skin type stop using commercial products for at least 30 days, ideally 90 days. Swap showergel and co. with natural, handmade soap. And every cream, moisturiser, and serum you have with 1 or 2 plant oils. That’s a great sart. If you like the result, we can talk more and create your signature moisturiser. But for beginner, let’s keep it simple and budget-friendly.

“Many of the commercial product formulations are designed to give you the illusion of short-term and immediate "relief".

a so called quick-fix while severely dyhydrating and damaging your skin in the long term.”

-Maria Tanck, founder Ethosun and GPC

Take Back Control of Your Skin Health

For too long the beauty industry has convinced us that we need dozens of expensive creams, lotions and serums to look after our skin. The truth is far simpler. When you return to natural, organic ingredients and give your skin space to heal, you will discover that less is more.

If you would like to go deeper into holistic skincare, there are several ways I can support you:

  • Holistic Skincare Masterclass – learn how to craft your own healing moisturiser using pure, natural ingredients that truly work.

  • Holistic Skincare Expert Class – my signature programme for those ready to master the art and alchemy of creating their own products, with direct access to me.

  • Private Coaching – book a 75 minute one-to-one session with me and gain personalised guidance on your skin type, routines, and natural product choices. Also available for businesses!

Your skin already holds the wisdom of healing.
All it needs is the right support and the freedom to function as nature intended.

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Also read: Neurodermatitis before and after

FAQ – Natural and Holistic Skincare

Is natural skincare better for sensitive skin?

Short answer: Yes. Natural and organic skincare avoids synthetic ingredients, making it much gentler for sensitive or acne-prone skin.
Full answer:
Yes. Natural and organic skincare is the best option for all skin types, especially sensitive or acne-prone skin, because it does not pollute your body with artificial components, microplastics or petroleum by-products.

Why do moisturisers contain water?

Short answer: Water is mainly used as a cheap filler and to boost “organic” percentage claims, but it does not benefit your skin.
Full answer:
Water is mainly used as a filler. Have you ever noticed the slogan “92% organic ingredients” on a label? That usually refers to the water content. Water is technically an organic substance, so it allows brands to make these claims. The product may still contain fully synthesised ingredients, and those are the ones you should avoid where possible.
Water itself is neutral. It does not harm or benefit your skin. The concern lies with the lab-made ingredients that accompany it. Used regularly over a long period, they can negatively affect your skin and your overall health.

What’s the safest natural oil for beginners?

Short answer: Almond, jojoba, rosehip, marula, coconut, baobab, passion fruit or sesame oil are all safe places to start.
Full answer:
You can start with almost any natural oil of your choice. I often recommend coconut oil (solid below about 23°C / 73°F), almond oil, jojoba oil, black seed oil, baobab oil, marula oil, passion fruit oil (my personal favourite), sesame oil or rosehip oil.
Watch out for allergies, but otherwise these oils are safe and versatile. Most of them (except black seed oil) also make excellent make-up removers, and many can soothe an itchy scalp too.

I have acne. Can I still use oil on my skin?

Short answer: Yes. Oils rich in linoleic acid are light, balancing and anti-inflammatory, making them ideal for acne-prone skin.
Full answer:
Yes, absolutely. It may sound surprising, but here’s why.
Research shows that acne-prone skin often has lower levels of linoleic acid in its natural sebum. When sebum is low in linoleic acid, it becomes thicker and stickier, which makes clogged pores and breakouts more likely.
Oils naturally rich in linoleic acid can help rebalance this. They are lighter in texture, absorb quickly and encourage a healthier sebum composition. This makes the skin less congested and reduces the risk of new blemishes.
Linoleic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties. It helps calm redness, soothe irritation, support the skin barrier and promote healing, all of which benefit acne-prone skin.
On the other hand, oils high in oleic acid can trigger breakouts if you are prone to them. A good example is the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), which often produces oil that is naturally more oleic.
From my own experience, I love marula oil in hot, dry climates because it is deeply nourishing and long-lasting. But my chin never responds well to it. Other areas, such as my eye contour or my shins after shaving, absolutely thrive on marula oil. It is all about learning what your skin needs.

Which are the best natural oils to treat acne?

Short answer: Kalahari melon, hemp seed, grape seed and rosehip oil are excellent options for acne-prone skin.
Full answer:
Some of the best options include kalahari melon oil, hemp seed oil, grape seed oil and rosehip oil. The key is to try them for yourself and listen to your skin.
For best and fastest results, stop using commercial cleansers and moisturisers while you make the switch. Give your skin at least 30 days to adjust.
And if 30 days feels like a long time, ask yourself: what are 30 days compared to the rest of your life? If “quick-fix” miracle products had really worked, you would not still be searching for solutions.

What does “holistic skincare” mean?

Short answer: Holistic skincare treats the skin as part of your whole body and lifestyle, not just an isolated issue.
Full Answer:
Holistic skincare looks at the skin as part of your whole body and lifestyle, not as an isolated problem to “fix”. Instead of only treating surface symptoms, it focuses on the root causes of skin issues, such as nutrition, stress, environment, and daily habits.
It uses natural, non-toxic ingredients that work in harmony with your body’s own healing processes, while also considering your overall wellbeing. In short, holistic skincare is about supporting healthy, radiant skin by balancing both the inside and outside.
I have a whole library of articles  and video courses focussing on this subject. Sign up to my Members club for the full experience.

How do I know that my skincare products are good?

Short answer: Look for short ingredient lists, natural components and transparency. Long, synthetic-heavy labels are a red flag.
Full answer:
Good skincare should not only make your skin feel better in the moment, but also support its natural functions over the long term. Look for products with short ingredient lists, natural components and transparent sourcing. If the label is long and filled with synthetic compounds you do not recognise, it is unlikely to be beneficial for your skin.

How do I know that my cleansing products are eco-friendly and organic?

Short answer: Choose a traditionally made, unscented soap with a curing time of at least 4–6 weeks.
Full answer:
The simplest and safest option is to buy a traditionally made soap, preferably unscented. Unscented soaps can be used on the face and body, even for sensitive or acne-prone skin, and are suitable for people with fragrance allergies.
A high-quality soap bar can be recognised by its ingredients and curing time. Like fine wine or cheese, a good soap should cure for at least 4–6 weeks. Aleppo soap, for example, is a timeless classic that can be used for everything: skin, hair, fabrics, even dishes. Many people assume this makes it “too harsh” for the skin, but that is simply a result of marketing.
I make my own soaps in different styles — some extra-rich, some light and creamy. If I buy a soap, I always check the INCI list. The shorter the list, the better. I avoid perfume and essential oils and look for a curing time of 4–6 weeks with 5–8% superfat.
Liquid natural soaps also exist, but they are harder to produce and store because of their higher water content.
I always make my own soaps to my liking. Some extra rich, some light and creamy. If I happen to buy a soap bar I always make sure to check the INCI list on the label. I prefer it nice and easy, so s ahort INCI list without paerfume or essential oils are always my favourites. And of course I make sure the curing period is right and I usually pick a bar that’s between  5-8% superfat.
Liquid natural soap also exist but that’s a difficult process and it’s again harder to store over long periods of time, due to its high water content.

How often should I shower?

Short answer: Daily showers are fine. The problem is not water, but the products we use during and after.
Full answer:
You probably guessed it. Most of us shower to often, using too hot water, and the wrong products during and after showering. The frequency of showering depends more on your lifestyle than on any strict rule. Water itself is not the issue, the real concern lies with the soaps, shower gels and lotions we apply during and after washing. Many of these contain synthetic ingredients that strip the skin’s natural oils, disrupt its microbiome and cause dryness or irritation.
It is also worth knowing that you do not always need soap. Substances like sweat or blood are water-soluble and rinse away easily. Soap is only necessary for removing oil- or grease-based residues, or makeup. By reducing the use of soap to when it is truly needed, you can protect your skin’s natural balance.
For a gentle and versatile alternative, cleansing clay (known as Wascherde in German) is an excellent option. It can be used on the body, face and even hair. Clay binds excess oil and impurities without disturbing the skin’s protective layer, leaving it clean but not stripped.
So, shower daily, if you want but choose your products wisely -  your skin will thank you.